I woke up on my second day in Jaipur with a bunch of girls discussing chai (tea) and their bowel movement, almost extensively and rather loudly. Who knew hostels could be so loud in the early hours of morning? Everyone but me I guess. I woke up after all the bunkers were empty so I could take my own sweet time to shower and get ready to leave. I headed towards Wind View Café again to charge myself for the day, literally with some sandwiches and metaphorically with the view of Hawa Mahal. On the agenda for the day were the phenomenal forts I could see from my table atop the Aravalli hills.
First stop was Amer/Amber Fort. The fort was very much on the top from my Uber drop off point but I got busy admiring the view surrounded by Maota lake and never thought about the amount of efforts it was going to take to climb till the palace door. The moment I entered, I was hounded by guides as usual but I didn’t budge until I entered the courtyard through Suraj Pole. I didn’t have a good experience with the guide here because he explained everything to me in the courtyard because he wasn’t allowed in the interiors without a ticket. I was too confused so I just went ahead and he waited for me in the beautiful and humongous courtyard. Amer Palace is exactly located atop Cheel ka Teela (Hill of Eagles) on the Aravalli range.
This 15th century palace built by Raja Man Singh I of Jaipur has elements of opulent Rajputana style influenced by Mughal finesse in it’s architecture, due to Raja Man Singh’s alliance with Mughal Emperor Akbar. I was particularly impressed by the Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) given its intricate mirror work of floral designs all over. The entry inside Sheesh Mahal is restricted and I am glad that it is because we do not respect history enough in India and people destroy beautiful things just to own a piece of it. There is a Diwan-i-Aam and Diwan-i-Khas in every palace ruled by a king, so this was no different. Apart from the many rooms, corridors and temples were the beautiful gardens-Charbagh opposite Sheesh Mahal and Kesar Kyari Bagh built between Maota lake. I got a jeep ride to reach down the hill where my guide advised me to hire an auto for the entire day, I didn’t agree to it initially but gave in after I saw the Uber rates to go from one fort to another.
My auto driver was a nice man, he took pictures of me enroute Jaigarh when we found a beautiful spot overlooking Jalmahal (Water Palace). The mountain road was completely deserted and scary even in broad daylight. The only sound I heard was of my noisy auto. Jaigarh fort was very special, all thanks to my guide. He entertained all my silly questions and told me everything in great detail, but he get brown points for being an even better photographer. There are secret passages connecting Amer Palace and Jaigarh fort which makes them one huge complex together. This 17th century fort was built by Raja Jai Singh I as a line of defense for Amer Fort which justifies the thick walls of this structure and it was a centre for artillery production; hence we find the world’s then largest cannon on wheels-“Jaivana Canon” displayed here. Jaigharh is also called “Victory Fort” as it was never conquered.
There is a museum which displays the canons and weapons used in that century. Unlike Amer fort and Nahargarh fort, Jaigarh is still owned and managed by the Royal Family of Jaipur, hence it was not a part of the composite ticket I bought at Hawa Mahal. My favourite place was the Charbagh facing the quarters where the King visited the Queen. The entry is restricted since it is still used by the Royal Family to entertain their guests. My guide told me a lot of stories but I forgot a few of them, it took me more than two hours to end my tour. Oh and my lunch that day was a bar of chocolate bought from Jaigarh Restaurant which my guide said was managed by the grandson of the Maharaja’s chef. I had no time to eat because it was five in the evening and I didn’t want to miss the sunset at Nahargarh fort.
As soon as I entered Nahargarh fort, there was a paid entry towards Sheesh Mahal where you are not allowed to take pictures and a wax museum too. It was expensive but worth it. Only 3-4 people are allowed at a time inside Sheesh Mahal so I had to wait outside after my wax museum visit. There was a magician and puppeteer outside, so the puppeteer asked me to watch the traditional Rajasthani kathputli show (puppet show) while I waited. He told me I can pay anything that I wish to so I enjoyed the show for one through tiredness but I asked him to get some new clothes for his puppets. They were ragged. Palace puppets do not deserve to wear ragged clothes. Sheesh Mahal was grandiose by all means.
I couldn’t explore this fort built on the edge of the mountain apart from the breathtaking view it offers of the pink city of Jaipur. The view from the top will make you forget everything and that’s the only thing which matters in that moment. The golden sunlight before dusk gave the city a midas touch. This fort was built as a retreat place and extended line of defense to Jaigarh fort by Raja Jai Singh I in the 17th century. I waited till 7.30 pm to witness the view of the city lights but the peaceful path leading to the gate became one from a horror movie scene. It was pitch dark and there was nobody in sight with a dash of pin drop silence. It suddenly dawned on me that the palatial beauty of the forts was haunting without the daylight. I come from a city which never sleep and the horns of the vehicle honk every minute. The silence and darkness of the mountain road sent me to the horror show sets I grew up watching, the open auto ride didn’t help a bit to pacify my fears.
I finally reached Jalmahal which was my drop off point. Jalmahal was situated in lake Sagar and entry is restricted, so all you could enjoy was a view from afar. I loitered around the area waiting for my Uber to take me to Handi rooftop restaurant for their famous laal maas (red meat dish). I was under the impression that laal maas meant red meat which has a striking red colour, little did I know the name of the dish was so because of the spicy red chillies. I ordered a portion for one person and I could only eat half because of the water I guzzled. It is super spicy, so do not underestimate it. I couldn’t wait to hit my bunker bed while I found more new faces as I entered my room. I got into bed feeling satisfied and happy.
Can’t wait to share my last day in Jaipur with you’ll. See you next Wednesday!
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